What to see in Buenos Aires, let me tell you a short story…
The first time I wandered into Buenos Aires, I arrived bleary-eyed from an overnight bus journey from Mendoza, with nothing but a crumpled Lonely Planet map and a vague ambition to “see some stuff” (lately I never plan anything when traveling to a new city).
Within minutes of stepping into the street, I was hopelessly lost—staring at the Obelisk and surrounded by swarms of Porteños who all seemed to know where they were headed with far more conviction than I could muster. My luck turned when an elderly gentleman, dressed like he had just stepped out of a 1950s tango club, took pity on me.
Without a word of English, and me struggling to understand the Spanish with Argentinian inflection, he gestured for me to follow. Ten minutes later, I found myself in Café Tortoni, the city’s oldest café, sipping a cortado as he hummed Gardel tunes. And so began my love affair with Buenos Aires, a city that seduces the soul as much as it confuses the mind.
A note for the wanderer’s lost in this post. I won’t cover the practicality of a travel to Buenos Aires. In particular, I won’t cover the money exchange thing, the credit card fees, and exchange rates, but I strongly suggest you to get some information about it, maybe reading the post on Buenos Aires pericolosa (I know, it’s in Italian, try to google translate and be kind).
Also, let’s try to keep an eye on the news because the new President of Argentina, Javier Milei, apart from weird appearances on the international stage and some offensive comments about Cristoforo Colombo, is also changing quite a few things from the economic perspective.
What to see in Buenos Aires, a microcosm of madness: la Boca
Start your trip in La Boca, but prepare yourself for sensory overload. Sure, it’s the tourist cliché—the technicolor houses of Caminito and the street performers swaying to tango—but it’s the kind of kitsch that you can’t resist. For those willing to stray from the photo-snapping hordes, take a deeper dive into this once working-class neighborhood. Wander the streets beyond Caminito, where murals cover crumbling walls, reflecting the history and struggles of the immigrant communities that built Buenos Aires.
Be warned: the contrast between the bustling tourist section and the stark realities of the neighborhood beyond will hit you like a shot of fernet. But that’s part of the charm—Buenos Aires never lets you get too comfortable in your bubble.
What to see in Buenos Aires: the Paris of the south, also known as Recoleta
When you’re ready to swap street art for old-world opulence, head to Recoleta. This district drips with European flair, with its grand boulevards and Belle Époque architecture. The centerpiece, of course, is the Recoleta Cemetery, an eerie, labyrinthine city of mausoleums where Argentina’s elite rest for eternity. Everyone comes to gawk at Eva Perón’s tomb, but what leaves a mark is the absurdity of it all: some mausoleums are works of art, others crumbling in disrepair. Death, much like life in Buenos Aires, comes in many shades.
But Recoleta isn’t just for the departed. Afterward, take a stroll to Avenida Alvear, Buenos Aires’ answer to the Champs-Élysées, and drop into Palais de Glace, a former ice rink turned art gallery. It’s the kind of decadent repurposing that only a city like Buenos Aires could pull off with a straight face.
The city’s beating heart: San Telmo
No trip is complete without losing yourself in San Telmo, a bohemian quarter that feels like it’s perpetually stuck in the 19th century. The cobblestone streets creak with history, and on Sundays, the sprawling Feria de San Telmo transforms the neighborhood into an open-air market where you can haggle for antiques, tango with strangers, or accidentally walk off with someone’s grandmother’s silverware.
Yet, San Telmo’s real magic isn’t in its markets or its artisanal treasures. It’s the atmosphere. The bars—ranging from divey to downright charming—buzz with locals drinking wine from penguin-shaped pitchers (yes, that’s a thing here), while impromptu tango breaks out in dimly lit corners. You’ll wonder if you’ve walked onto the set of an old film noir, but nope—it’s just Tuesday in San Telmo.
Parks and politics: Palermo
Once you’ve had your fill of history, head to Palermo, the city’s most dynamic barrio. Split into various micro-neighborhoods like Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood, this area is where Buenos Aires’ creative class comes to play. Here, leafy parks like Bosques de Palermo provide a welcome escape from the city’s chaos, with sprawling green spaces perfect for lounging or people-watching.
Palermo is also home to some of the best modern art galleries, including the Malba (Museum of Latin American Art of Buenos Aires), where you’ll find works by Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, and Argentina’s own Antonio Berni. But really, the vibe here is more about stylish bars, hidden speakeasies, and buzzing nightlife. You can sip cocktails at Uptown—a bar disguised as a subway station—or indulge in local craft beers at Antares. Whatever you choose, Palermo is where the city’s pulse beats strongest.
Feeding Frenzy: Where to Eat
Of course, all that wandering is bound to work up an appetite. Lucky for you, Buenos Aires takes its food as seriously as it takes its football.
If you’re after a carnivorous feast, Don Julio in Palermo is an absolute must. It’s the kind of parrilla (grill) where they age the beef to perfection, and the waiters serve you as though they’re revealing a family secret. The bife de chorizo is divine, and you’ll likely end up rethinking every steak you’ve ever eaten.
For something more intimate and experimental, El Baqueano in San Telmo offers contemporary Argentine cuisine that plays with local ingredients in ways you wouldn’t expect. Think llama carpaccio and Patagonian trout—this isn’t your standard steakhouse fare. It’s part dining, part adventure.
As I discovered back on that first chaotic day, Buenos Aires is a city of contradictions, where elegance rubs shoulders with grittiness, and tradition mixes with the avant-garde. You don’t visit Buenos Aires; you surrender to it. One minute you’re fumbling for directions, the next, you’re sipping Malbec in a tango hall, wondering why you’d ever want to leave.
Welcome to Buenos Aires: the city where getting lost is half the fun.
The post on what to see in Buenos Aires is finished, if you want to keep on reading let me give you a few suggestions:
Quick question, do you think that the recent economic policies of the president Milei affected the black market vs legit market money?
Short answer, yes. The official rate for one dollar is now 1030 pesos (in October 2022 was 146) and the unofficial is 1200 (it was 290 in October 2022). So with the inflation going down the rate between the official and unofficial is narrowing. Still, the econonomic policies of the President are a hard pillow to swallow.